Circle Tour 13: The Last Day in Donosti

Our last full day in the Basque Country is beginning to fade, so it is urgent that I make time to remember and record what the photos bring to mind. There were many beautiful moments, in spite of how unwell I felt.

It was a free day to explore the magnificent city, go shopping, and meet up with our Basque friends.

Barb and I often ended up together because we could maintain a similar pace, although on this day her energy level far surpassed mine. We walked and walked past the lovely beach area...

...and up by the Miramar Palace where the royals enjoyed many summers.

We walked and walked and observed how the ancient and modern blend and overlap in so many ways.

Saturday mornings the streets were buzzing with people and events.
We stood in front of the Town Hall (above) and watched wedding parties exiting with fan fare every twenty minutes.

On a pedestrian walkway downtown we came across musicians and people joining in with traditional dancing.

We were told that the fish market was a must-see. Very special, indeed. Multiple vendors atistically displayed every imaginable edible sea creature. Even the floors are works of art with mosaics that reflect the Basque fishing and whaling history.

We had walked and walked (Did I mention that already?) and I was ready for a break. We spotted a McDonald's and went in to sit a spell and have some tea and a bite to eat.

I think we headed back to our lodging after that, though Barb could have kept on walking...

When we arrived I must have felt like the statue of the Txantxillo in front of our hotel.
Santiago (James) Hernández Redondo, nicknamed "Txantxillo" is considered the most well-known person in San Sebastian of the latter half of the 20th century --a bag man who endeared himself to all with his quaint manners, his xylophone and peculiar way of begging for a "pesetíta". He died ten years ago and is still missed and remembered.

I must have rested some before our long-awaited visit to our dear friends in Hondarribia. Alberto came by around 6 p.m. and drove us all to their gated community. We were allowed to see their piso (apartment) in spite of the remodelling mess, which he called un desastre. Of course we didn't care, we were delighted to spend time with his family, Edurne and the girls.

Alberto pointing out their third floor apartment; the lovely sisters appearing from upstairs--Amaia and Eider

All of us refers to Dane and Laurie, who had been with us the first time in 2010 (read more about that visit and see where we stayed in an old post--Arantxa's Place), their son Stefan and Dane's mother Barb.

We walked with our friends to revisit the familiar places and see what was new. Looks like Dane really needed that little break!

Two new things: 1) the walk-in clinic (ambulatorio) where Edurne now works is in the top floor of the Itsas Etxea pictured on the right; 2) the big blue boat Imanol is refurbishing as a retirement hobby.

In our previous visit Edurne's practice was in a temporary building while the new clinic was under construction. (For more go to Zorionak, Edurne!)

Later that evening, closer to the customary late dinner hour, we wound our way to the old part of town and eventually ended up at the sociedad gastronómica where some of the friends have a membership. There we met up with more friends and family and had a wonderful meal and delightful conversation.

Notice who are wearing aprons. Only men are allowed in the kitchen. (I think I like that!)

(To read and see more go to Eating Experiences in Euskadi.)

The crowd was a little different from our previous visit. We met some family members for the first time.

A memorable evening that ended all too soon.

We walked through the old city wall, said our goodbyes and began to disperse.

¡Hasta la próxima!

Circle Tour 13: on to Lekeitio

The day we left San Sebastián dawned cold and wet, so I donned my rainy-day uniform: layers + scarf + my world jacket.

 We were looking forward to seeing some of the special places we had visited on our previous trip on the Northern Cantabrian coast and hoping to meet friends with whom we had corresponded. However, it was not to be.
This is what we saw for mile after mile (or should I say kilometer after kilometer.)

And this is what we missed, documented three years earlier in these posts: Zarautz and Getaria; Basque Farm Country. The weather was gray and unpredictable back then too. For further entertainment you can watch our friend Dane try his hand at Pelota vasca, (Basque hand ball).

In due time we arrived in Lekeitio, a quaint fishing village.

It was somewhat complicated to park the vans and carry our luggage up to the 17th century hotel where our team took over the entire building--Hotel Palacio Oxangoiti (on the right). You can read about it in this article in the New York Times.

Directly across from the hotel was the town hall, el ayuntamiento.

And across the plaza an imposing fifteenth century cathedral.

It was rather late by the time we sorted out who would stay in what rooms, each one unique in this modernized remodeled house built in 1674. The girls were excited to share a suite and probably had too much fun that night and not enough sleep. ;-)

By the time we set out to find something to eat the row of restaurants on the waterfront had just closed their Menú del día. It was, after all, 4 p.m. We did, however, find one that would serve us.

The Wait-la espera

Ensalada rusa, my first course

When I settled in our room I found the one proper double bed so far in our experience on the Spanish side of the Basque Country.

I stepped out on the small balcony and was surprised to look down just in time to see the cyclists ride in!
 Video of cyclists arrival in Leikeitio

María Isabel, our delightful hotel manager, had arranged for a dinner to be served at a nearby restaurant.

A wonderful meal and evening with our friends ended our twelfth day in beautiful Basque Country.

Circle Tour 13: on to San Sebastián

Pressing on, determined to continue blogging about our tour of the Basque Country to the end.
I left off a couple weeks ago with our time in Bayonne and evening outing to Biarritz.

The next morning we enjoyed the abundant hotel breakfast in crowded quarters, each doing their own thing.  Mike sat with German travelers and had a delightful conversation. They highly recommended the Gugenheim Museum in Bilbao. We tucked that away on our wish list for another time.

Dane and his mother sharing a table

 The only gathering place for our team meeting was the gazebo in the park close to where our vans were parked.

As usual, getting organized and on the road was slow.

We, the van riders took a lunch break in Hendaye, still in France, right across the river from the town where our friends live in Hondarribia.

I was feeling antsy, eager to arrive in our favorite town. (Read about a previous visit here.)
Finally we were over the border, a very unimpressive crossing.

The plan was to meet in the old part of town where the original fort has been turned into quite a luxurious hotel. Making our way up narrow winding streets was not easy for the vans.

Nor was the cobble stone climb fun for the cyclists.

However, meeting up with the cyclists in that plaza was a memorable highlight of that beautiful day.
Some went inside for coffee or into the tourist office.

I called our friend Edurne to let her know we were in town. She couldn't meet us and did not think that her neighbor Gonzalo could either. He had so wanted to join the cyclists and show them his favorite route.

  We sang a couple of our favorite songs. A lady sitting nearby thanked us.

Then it was time for the cyclists to walk their bikes back down the cobbled incline and take off for Mt. Jaizkibel. This was a change of plan, all because Gonzalo so highly recommended it. Like how could they miss such a beautiful lookout point. 

What a surprise to find Gonzalo waiting to accompany them! He probably took this picture when they reached the peak. He not only rode with the team, he also took Tate to the top of the top. And then he had to ride all the way back home!

The vans went on to San Sebastián (Donosti) to our accomodation for the next two nights--Olarian, a student residence/hotel where many interesting statues welcomed us.

And several real people as well! We were pleasantly surprised to see Brad, a fellow-Uplander, recently arrived to  check out the place where he will be bringing Taylor University students next January.

Brad Seeman; Idoia and Alazne

What a delight to see one of the Basque girls who had spent a month in our community a few years back, with her younger sister, Alazne, who came to the US last year and also traveled with us on the Circle Tour.

Many began dispersing, heading for the beach within walking distance.

 Few (or was it only me?) were there to welcome the cyclists--Arrival in Donosti (28 seconds).

Later that evening we scattered again. Mike and I walked to a nearby restaurant with a few remaining team members. It was a pleasant evening. We sat outside and learned later that it costs 1.50 euro more per person to sit outside.

Next, a whole day in San Sebastián (Donosti) and, best of all, we will get together with our friends from Hondarribia!

Circle Tour 13: on to Bayonne

Another cloudy day.
We bad farewell to our hotel hostess, Natasha.
Walked around the town of Mauleon again for a bit after the cyclists left.
I took some pictures I had missed the day before, like the Café where we ate lunch.

 Then we were on the road again...

....praying for each village and church.

We stopped in a couple towns. In the first one, St. Palais, we wandered the streets and tested our limited French in a couple shops. Bought some fruit in one and a snack in a wonderful bakery.

Interesting looking tomatoes. Une tartelette pommes

In another town, Hasperras, we had lunch.
Barb and I ordered the Enfants Menu. Does that look like a child's portion to you?
I learned the Basque word for bathroom/restroom/toilet (whatever you want to call it in English): komunak.
The poem on the painting was difficult for even Basque speakers to translate--poetic, old-literary language. Can you see the Basque flag and the wind?

In the restaurant we initially had a communication problem. We were struggling to speak French with the waitress, until we realized that, of course, she spoke Basque and Alazne could be our interpreter!

We discovered a very interesting church in that town and spent some time there. All inscriptions were in Basque, or perhaps Latin.

Mother of Sorrows statue on right

Wish I could understand all the words.

Warrior Archangel Michael, demon under foot (on right)

All around the walls were covered with intricate and colorful paintings of saints, angels, religious figures, probably a very interesting church history lesson.

We hoped the cyclists would discover this fascinating church as well, but found out later that they entered another one, different yet equally amazing, and spent a long time there singing and praising.

Eventually we arrived at our destination--Bayonne (Baiona) and the Best Western hotel downtown very close to all the important buildings such as the cathedral, Tourist Office, and their famous chocolate shops.

We walked around, explored the neighborhood, watching and waiting for the cyclists.
Suddenly they were there and we weren't. We ran to meet, greet and take pictures.

Arrival of the cyclists and their van with luggage.

Now picture the cyclists taking their bikes up to their rooms on the third floor.
"Hmmm...Should I take the elevator or the stairs?"

Can you see the bicycle standing on end?

After they showered (thankfully!) we all loaded up in the vans and set out for the famous Atlantic Coast.
Dane was eager for us to enjoy the beach and the fantastic views. However, he and Charlie look like all they wanted to do was rest and watch everyone else having fun.

When it was appropriately late we headed to one of the beach front cafés which happened to be Mexican.

Tate and Chelsea Gaines; Petite Quesadilla; heading back to the vans

One last night to enjoy the French-style double beds ;-).

Bonne nuit.
Bihar arte.("until tomorrow" in Basque)